The Christmas House: Lights Galore

The weather turns a bit cooler, the leaves

(here in San Diego) finally change to brilliant reds, yellows & oranges before

sporatic rain and wind storms sweep them away. Suddenly

I begin craving stews, hot drinks and

christmas lights.

I love everything about Christmas lights . . . even untangling them holds a certain charm for me (for about 20 minutes, after which I commit myself to finally buying a storage wheel), but not everyone in my family is so enthusiastic.

To satisfy my need for christmas lights, and my hubby's need for less clutter and stress, we do an annual family tour of local christmas lights.

Del Mar Racetrack hosts the annual festival of lights, which costs between $10-20 per car, depending on the amount of passengers. For this price you can tune the radio to christmas music and drive around a specially tiled path on the racetrack as many times as you want, and you get to see a huge array of lights - most of which appear to be animated. We usually make it two times around, maybe three if we let the kids unbuckle and run loose in the car and their excited screams haven't given us adults blinding headaches.

After the first time around, we usually each pick our favorite display and join in singing a few christmas songs. If you've never seen a massive display of lights all in one place, or if you just need a one-stop-shopping-type of light experience this will probably do it for you. It just doesn't quite do it for me though. The lights are all very distant so it's not a very interactive experience and it really does take a couple of times around to really see everything since there is so much going on.

What: The Festival / Holiday of Lights

Where: Del Mar, California (the nearest main intersection is Via De La Valle exit off the I-15 & Jimmy Durante Blvd); Follow the signs through the main parking lot entrance of the Del Mar Fairgrounds.

Cost: between $14-20 per car, depending on the number of passengers; $10 per person for a hayride experience.

When: November to January 3rd, 2009, evenings

My Take: Lots of great lights, family friendly, high class, not interactive, costly.

See www.sdfair.com/holidayoflights for more info.

Okay, so driving around to see the lights is not typically interactive, but for those of you in search for that uplifting holiday cheer with a bit of interactive fun for the kids, you need to stop by Southern California's best christmas light experience.

(Full disclosure: Okay, so I don't know if it's actually the most amazing display of lights on a private residence in Southern California . . . but it is awesome).

The owners of this house, a.k.a. The Christmas House, have really outdone themselves this year. Where to start? It has lights, lights, lights, music, a nativity, patriotism, fake snow, miniature train sets, and very welcoming hosts. Here, the worries of the world get put on hold, and the joy and magic of Christmas come alive.

Although most of the year you would probably pass this typically modest home without notice, during the month of December you'll have no problem finding this house before you actually see the address. When you do see it, drive past it slowly and then park alongside the road. Get everyone out of the car and walk to the house. To get the best view of the lights, stand directly across from the house on the opposite sidewalk (and don't you dare park here and block everyone's view!)

The lights are sychronized to music and you'll need to stay for a couple of songs to realize the full range of coordination and decoration. Then cross the street for a closer look at penguins, santas, trains and candycanes. With every part of the house decorated in lights, and the lawns covered in white batting, it feels like a trip to a California North Pole.

Mr. [owner's name] is a jolly old soul and will be sure to wish you a Merry Christmas and hand you a mini candycane. Pass under the lighted arches and watch the kids dancing with upturned faces in the falling fake snow. The front door will be open and Mrs. [owner's name] will say hello and invite you to watch the large table of model trains racing around a snow-covered mountainside. Christmas decorations and ornaments decorate every space, and even a glimpse of the backyard will give you an eyeful of christmas lights. A singing dog and a snow angel will entertain you on the way out . . . and if you enjoy your visit, be sure to help the [owner's names] continue their Christmas House tradition with whatever donation you can. Trying to pay for this amount of lights and decorations costs quite a lot, and they can use all the help they can get. The donation box sits right near the garage door.

What: The Christmas House (an unofficial name for a private residence)

Where: Murrieta, California (the nearest main intersection is Los Alamos exit off the I-215 and Whitewood Rd). Actual address is 39682 Avenida Miguel Oeste.

Cost: FREE (donation appreciated, but optional)

When: After Thanksgiving break to New Years Day; most evenings

My Take: interactive experience, family-friendly, inexpensive

Although the square footage of this Christmas House experience isn't nearly as big as Del Mar's Festival of Lights, the interactive quality and festive good cheer make this my all-time favorite Christmas light experience.

If you know of more great light sights, I'd love to hear about them!

Julian, California

Julian, California is a tiny little town - originally a gold town - now the apple capital of the world . . . or at least southern california.

If you've grown tired of the seaside scenery, a drive out to Julian might be just the thing. The road is good all the way. It can get a little winding, depending on which route you take, but shouldn't take more than two hours.

Once you're here, plan on parking on a side street off the main road (free) and taking a leisurely stroll down mainstreet. There are plenty of unusual and quaint little shops here to keep grownups busy, although the kids will probably get tired of this so be sure to hang the promise of apple pie over their heads. I don't like using strollers here because, although mainstreet is pretty level, the sidestreets are pretty steep and the boardwalks on main are usually pretty crowded. The shops are small and most are not stroller friendly. A baby bjorn/backpack/front carrier would be a better solution for infants here.

For older kids and adults, checking out the gold mining history is very interesting. Try panning for gold and visiting the old gold mine. There are a couple of small museums and historic sites around and really unique gifts of all shapes and sizes.

Okay, so really the only reason my kids look forward to coming all the way out to Julian is the extremely yummy apple pie in the fall and the hikes available in the area. With a little preview of the native vegetation and wildlife, my kids find a lot to look forward to - and wear themselves out on the little dirt trails around the national park nearby to Julian.

I like walking mainstreet Julian for the old-time atmosphere and the goodies I can buy there. I love the Julian Cider Mill, which has apple cider, an assortment of both expected and unexpected flavors of preserves, nuts and dried fruits and candies.

Mom's Pies is on the same side of the street, but nearer the 4-way stop further down the street. The boysenberry apple pie is delicious, but they have several options for pies, soups and sandwiches and an quaint, old-fashioned atmosphere. The line there is always that long . . . for good reason.

I also like the soap and scents shop (sorry, can't remember the name!) that's almost directly across the street from Mom's. I can't stay inside for too long as the smells become overpowering, but I love their freshly dried leaf & fruit scent assortments - from citrus, to lime, to christmas - that you can buy in different sized boxes that you fill yourself. I use them when I'm storing linens or in a guest room before company comes. With toy shops, unusual clothing stores, handmade crafts and even buffalo meat, there is a little of something for all sorts of tastes.

A horse and buggy typically run. Apparently there is an afternoon comedy show (which we've never seen). There are some U-pick opportunities, but call ahead to see what their seasonal schedule is. Camping, horseback riding, hiking, and picnics are all great ways to spend a day or a couple of days.

If you decide to come out, make sure to check Julian's festival schedule, because although these events have a special atmosphere, there is also a severe parking and traffic problem at these times that you should be prepared for.

Check out this webpage to get more info and an event schedule and enjoy:

http://www.julianca.com/

La Jolla Cove San Diego CA

La Jolla (pronounced "la hoy-ya") is a beautiful coastal town west of
the I-5 freeway, north of San Diego.

With only a few roads in and out, La Jolla tends to have a problem
with traffic congestion and parking limitations. In spite of that, it
is still one of the best places to visit and get a unique look at the
real San Diego area.

We visited the cove on a weekday, so although getting in and out were
still a bit slow (mainly because I got lost trying to get off on the
right exit - it's harder from the north than from the south) parellel
parking on the road nearest the coast was quite open and free.
Usually we'd have to park east of the main shopping area and walk down
to the coast or spend forty minutes prowling the main parking zones
for someone leaving. But not today.

La Jolla has a beautiful landscaped park just north of the cove.
There are bathrooms and outdoor showers here, although they are pretty
wet and sandy and don't have soap.

At the northern end of the park (remember the ocean is always west)
there are stairs that take you down onto the sea swept sandstone.
This is a fantastic place to go tidepooling or enjoy the crashing
waves. This is not a great place for strollers, but kids of all ages
who can get out and walk can have fun here. Just remember that there
are no fences by these ocean-side cliffs (only up by the concrete
paths) and a young child could fall in. It's okay to get in the water
here, but easier when the tide is out.

Remember to pack any garbage out with you!

The park itself is a great place for romantic strolls, racing kids,
playing catch with a dog or taking photos.

If you continue south from the park you'll see some beautiful view
points of the coast and you'll come to the sea lion beach. This is
where the sea lions come every spring to have their babies, and often
live and eat here. This is not a good place to swim or sit on the
beach. Instead, stay up on the sidewalks to catch a glimpse of sea
lions in action, or if you go in the spring - to see and smell a whole
colony in action. Very cool.

Quebec City CANADA

UPDATE: 

Always love to talk about Quebec's Carnaval! 
Go to this link to learn more about this year's festivities:  http://www.carnaval.qc.ca/en

I wish more people loved the snow. Yeah, okay. So I chose to live in California where, well to be honest, the snow is not that impressive. HEY, we do get some snow . . . we just have to look a little harder to find it. That's why I think snow vacations are some of the BEST.

It's a bit early to be writing about this, but in February every year Quebec City in the Quebec province of Canada holds a festival or carnival called

the Carnaval de Quebec.

The Carnaval begins on January 29th and runs until February 14th, 2010.


Far to the north, Quebec City is beautiful in all seasons. The ability to speak French is helpful, but not strictly necessary . . . just don't expect people to be able to speak English. There is a lot of history behind this city and the people who live here are very proud of their heritage. The people at the Carnaval are friendly and welcoming, and this is one of the best (and biggest) kid-friendly events with guaranteed snow.

Le Bonhomme is a giant, perpetually smiling snowman who makes appearances and gets the party started. We've found the people at the event really wonderful, and frequently they (like most others in the tourism industry) speak english well.

This coming festival runs from January 29th to February 14th, 2010. With a variety of sports, family and nightlight activities, we found there was something to keep a multi-generational group more than happy.

The kids loved watching the dog sled racing, exploring the snow sculptures and, of course, getting prizes and playing at the kid-centered play areas at Place Desjardins and Kraft Village. My hubbie loved the outdoor ice skating, sledding and skiing opportunities at Place Hydro-Quebec, on the Plains of Abraham, and at nearby locations outside the city. I loved the history and beauty of the place, and grandma enjoyed the quaint and diverse shops. We found there was plenty to do and see with the nighttime parade as a perfect place to celebrate, as a family, our last night in this special place. What a party!


We found that renting an apartment worked really well for us and was much more private and comfortable for our family than the hotels. We usually drive up to Quebec City and tour around a bit. If you don't have a car, there are many hotels both in Old Town and near the Plains of Abraham that will get you close enough to walk to many of the kids' events. The ground is either icy or deep in snow so be sure to pull a sled along to get your kids around because they will NOT make it otherwise! Dress for true cold weather so you can enjoy all there is to see and do. If you don't you'll probably find yourself huddled in the Kraft Village tent (where its so warm you'll have to peel off the layers you and your children are wearing) and wish you had a warm ride home. Be sure to follow Barack Obama's example and try a Canadian beaver tail. These pastries are unbelievably good. Of course, I like poutine too (for the uninitiated: that's french fries with gooey melted cheese curds and gravy . . . so yum) so better not take my word for it.


February is not typically the coldest month in Quebec (that's January), but it is still dry eyeball, frozen nosehair, icicle cold. Good boots and layers of socks are a must, and a boot dryer doesn't hurt either. We actually had a hard time finding a sled the last time we went up, but managed it eventually. By warm dress, I mean clothing rated for zero degrees . . . or lower. Most good cold winter gear can be purchased up there for a decent price, but I would buy really good boots for everyone ahead of time at the very least.

WELL that's a lot for two cents. The website to check out (for English info) is

http://www.carnaval.qc.ca/history.html

UPDATE: The new 2010 Schedule and Itinerary is out, so see the above link to get more info. To find out where to meet Le Bonhomme, see the file below.

http://www.carnaval.qc.ca/images/carnaval/ou_voir_BH.pdf

It's serious cold, but also serious fun for the whole fam.

Bugs

Saint Martins Day Celebration and Handicrafts Fair

Mardilaat

If there were only one event I could go back to Estonia for (besides the song festival - Laulupidu - and Christmas) it wouldn't be the midsummer celebration - Jaanipaeve - or the beer festival or even the Old Town Days (which I loved), it would be the lesser known annual handicrafts fair for St. Martins Day.

This year, 2009, it will again be held at Saku Suurhall in the northwest area of Tallinn, called Rocca Al Mare, on November 5th to the 7th. You can get here by car (free parking) or by bus. It costs 50 EEKs for adult admission, and there are discount and family tickets also available. This small price tag is well worth it if you are interested in native cuisine, handicrafts, or Estonian music.

As you enter the oval outer ring on the second floor, homemade food goods: honey, jams and breads are set up for purchase on tables. Enter through the doorways between tables and you will see the main level laid out below. Go down several levels of stairs to browse these wares or have a seat on the plastic stadium seats to munch on a snack and watch the occasional musical performance at the opposite end of the hall. Here you can find handicrafts of all shapes and sizes. From amazingly warm wool baby buntings and all sizes of bed comforters, to woolen and flannel gloves, hats, boots and socks, from handwoven linens to leather purses, from wooden dishes and utensils to iron bells, the options seem endless in spite of the modest size of the arena.

Almost hidden between all the stalls is the best part of this fair . . . For between 30 to 60 EEKS per person, you and your kids can sit down and participate in Estonian culture. You can paint a ceramic figurine, shape ironworks or learn to weave using a real loom. My kids had a blast and so did I. We came away with some treasures and great memories.

The prices and variety of handicrafts here are the best you'll get all year. And with all there is to see and do, you may, like us, end up staying far longer than planned.

Saku Suurhall address:

www.sakusuurhall.ee

AS ROCCA AL MARE SUURHALL
Paldiski st. 104B, 13522 Tallinn, Estonia

Can't wait to go back!

Travels With Pooh

We've just moved and are still dealing with the unpacking mess. We have unpacked almost all of the giant boxes, so when people ask if we're all unpacked I can say honestly "almost!"

What that really means is that my giant boxes have turned into large piles separated into their appropriate rooms, which in turn are made into smaller piles into appropriate corners/shelves/closets of said room, a vital sorting process that is frequently undone as soon as my back is turned.

People who have moved usually qualify this 'moved in' question with "can you function? is it livable? do you have more mess than boxes?" etc., but people who haven't sometimes can't understand what takes so long. Honestly, it usually takes me a year before I feel moved into a place - the exception being Europe because we "travelled light", only taking four suitcases, five carryons and three carseats. Of course, American "light" still makes taxi drivers and hotel managers eyes bulge.

Unpacking is a journey of self-discovery. For example, I spend most of the time thinking about "why did I think that was important enough to carefully put in a box, store/ship/move it, and then take it out again?" and "I know I put that very important thing here somewhere. Where did it go?" I admit I spend at least 50% of my time looking for bills/keys/scissors that I had in my hand 30 seconds before.

What does any of this have to with Pooh? After having begged me to find the box hiding her stuffed friend, my daughters' entire body exploded with joy when we finally found that special box and unwrapped its contents. Winnie-the-Pooh was the first toy my oldest ever picked out for herself, and it has been the most enduring. Winnie-the-Pooh or Pooh Bear, as we like to call him, has been to more countries than many adults and was one of those few things that made all the transitions we've made this year a little easier. Pooh Bear, just by existing, helps make my daughter deal with all the worries and stresses, making them a little more 'bear'able.

Unlike people, who are sometimes unpredicable, Pooh Bear is a constant companion and fills whatever role helps her to work out the problems of her day. There is nothing at all like having a friend who never disappoints you, disagrees with you or acts contrary.

With his tooth-marked ears and patched nose, we're all waiting for Pooh Bear to make the Velveteen Rabbit transition and become a real bear just from the sheer magic of total unharnessed love.

Torrey Pines Beach Trail

So, one recent Saturday we headed to the nearby Torrey Pines Beach Trail Hike with seven kids in tow (all under 12 and obviously not all of them ours). Torrey Pines is a pretty small, but unique California State Reserve located just of Interstate 5, north of San Diego, near Del Mar. It's an interesting and educational place, and a good place to just have some fun, especially with kids.

We parked in a nearby residential area and walked to the entrance of the park. If you can find it, the beach parking is free and close to the entrance, but Saturday is not a great time to snag one. The park itself is free, but parking inside the entrance is $10 per car. There is a lower lot just past the entrance and the bathrooms, but for hiking it's much better to park in one of the two smaller upper lots. If like us you walk in, or if you end up parking in the lower lot, then you'll have to walk up the hill. With only wide dirt areas next to the paved road, this was not an ideal walk with kids. Occasionally we had to cross over from one side to the other to walk on the "safer" side of the road. Luckily there wasn't much traffic on this road. Drinking water is a must. It's hot, steep and has little shade, so do not try this if you have any doubts about your health and abilities. There are several hikes along the road, most of them are loops that have beautiful or interesting views and lots of native plants and small wildlife: rabbits, lizards, birds and bugs. We saw what I think was a giant nest, hanging like a decorative ornament ball on a pine tree. Be sure to watch out for snakes.

To get to the Beach Trail hike, we continued to the very top of the hill where there is a Visitors Center hidden on the left and two small parking lots. Veer through the parking lot on the right and stop to read the large map on the bulletin board. The Beach Trail hike is not well marked at the trail head, but just walk on the wide dirt path to the right of the bulletin board and you're on it. This trail winds down the sandy beach cliffs to the ocean. The trail is dry and dusty and surrounded by native Californian scrub and chaparral, but is well-marked. It's best to stay on the path, since wandering off the path is detrimental to both the ecosystem and your health if you happen to be one to find a rattlesnake. After the all-uphill walking just to get to the trail head, the trail was all downhill and very easy. There are striking views of dusty scrub mixed with chaparral and cactus, with carved sand cliffs and ocean as a backdrop. At every split, stay to the left until the split on the left is a steep rise, then turn to the right over sand boulders. The most difficult portion of the trail is the very end, getting from the cliffs down to the beach. Years ago we had hiked the trail and the cliff portion was very narrow, washed out and even dangerous. Now they've installed metal stairs, which are very steep, but are much safer than the eroding dirt cliff path. It took less than an hour from head to tail, and the kids loved the hike.

The final reward is stripping down to swimsuits at the water's edge and jumping in to cool off, or tide pooling the giant rocks to the south of the metal stairs. We played for hours, and then had a long, but lazy walk on the beach back to the park entrance. Check out http://www.torreypine.org/index.html for maps and more detailed information on the park.

Overnight Trip to LA

So we zipped up to LA for an overnighter. We had seriously considered taking the kids to Disneyland, but we have sort of a love hate relationship with the park. We love how excited our kids get, we love the atmosphere and some of the rides, but we definitely hate the high price tag and the crowds, crowds, crowds.

There is nothing like paying nearly a hundred dollars (per person, for the cheap tickets) and realizing that we paid it to stand in lines for hours. Total bummer. So while everyone else was trying to get in a last fling before school starts, we decided to try Knotts Berry Farm. We'd never been (having always favored Disney), but the late day discount beckoned us. At 4pm, tickets are discounted to $20 per paying person. Better yet, the park is starting to cool from its blistering heat, and the crowds are all headed the other direction. The kids loved the rides, and there were a lot of rides, especially in Camp Snoopy that were just their size that they didn't mind that there were still many rides they were too short to go on.

What really surprised me was that Knotts has a big emphasis on the American Old West with trains, coaches, Pony Express history and geode (a type of rock) lessons that made it a little more of an educational experience than I had expected. A nice surprise. Next time we'll read a book about the Old West first, and then go and get a little of an Old West experience at Knotts Berry Farm.

A word of warning though, although there are at least two drinking fountains located around the park, we couldn't find one when we really needed one and had to pay $4 for a small bottle of water. To prevent this, just bring your own bottles and refill when you see the fountains.

The park right now is open until 10pm, but we didn't even make it that long before my feet were hurting and our tummies were groaning for a late dinner. Of course there are plenty of dining options within the park, but my wallet refuses to part with that much money for a meal (unless we're in Europe and have no other option). This is definitely a place we'll go again.

We stayed at the Hilton Suites in Anaheim, just off Hwy 5. Which has extra large rooms with a sitting area, kitchenette and desk area, and a separate sleeping room with with king sized beds and another TV, and a large bathroom with separate tub and shower. I would give it good marks overall, as the rooms were nice, clean and comfortable (but not amazing) pools were good (an indoor, a large outdoor and a hot tub), there was a free internet computer in the lobby, and the staff were helpful, but busy. I wasn't a big fan of the decorative green metal railings with gaps that ran around the large open space on every floor and overlooked the first floor dining area. Every time my littlest one went near it I imagined her trying to stick her head through (followed closely by her body). I didn't actually test the width of the railing gaps to see if her head would fit, so this may be the dark imaginings of an active and paranoid parent, but we were on the sixth floor and I didn't have an actual desire to see if I was right or not. Also, as with any "nice" hotel, they charge crazy expensive prices for parking ($11 per night) and for breakfast in the hotel ($15.50 per person). We didn't need laundry services this time or I'm sure I would have been outraged by those prices too. Needless to say we went elsewhere for breakfast, but did end up parking at the hotel.

Overall, a great fast trip. Nothing like a little at-home tourism to spice life up a little. As if the kids didn't do THAT often enough.

Summer Sand, Sea, Sun in Albufeira Portugal

Portugal is a beautiful country. Coming as it did at the very end of our trip we opted for serious downtime. So we didn't really "see" Portugal as this meant alternating beach days with pool days. Not hard to do in Albufeira in the south of Portugal , where you will find dozens of similar seaside towns with perfect summer weather: warm and dry. Getting around was quite easy. Everyone we met spoke some level of English and we found many things catered to the UK tourism industry, including the escalators down to the beach (enter on the left, exit on the right). Fish 'n chip shops abound, and books, even kids books, are readily available in certain bookstores. A mini train is a fun, but more expensive way to get to and from the beach, and buses run very regularly. Bull fighting is one entertainment option and local shopping is another. There are beautiful handmade linens and expensive (10 euro per) but well made beach towels for sale near the beach. Local events, summer concerts or sporting events are frequently there as well. We basically lived in our swimsuits for a week before starting the long journey home. The entire southern county of Portugal, the Algarve, is a well known "family friendly" destination. The weather is warm and dry and the sand is soft with generally gentle waters. The sun is very hot and strong but the water is very cold. The downside to this lovely place is that some parents brought their kids here to get a vacation FROM rather than WITH their kids and inconsiderate and childish, obnoxious behavior often went unchecked by tuned out adults. As an added FYI, you can't go to a pool or beach here without seeing topless women. All throughout Europe, men, boys and kids wear the speedo bottoms and babies go naked. Directly opposite the American cultural norm, we saw girls up to the age of twelve wearing only bottoms. And when they do graduate to wearing tops, it's bikini style. I just convinced all the men where to go! We didn't find this offensive as it's really normal here, but it required a little explanation to our girls. This coincides with the European mentality generally. In Croatia we learned that any beautiful beach can easily become a nudist beach, but here in Albufeira the usual thing is to lay down to take off your top, but this not a hard and fast rule by any means.

Overall, we found southern Portugal to be the perfect temperature with plenty to do and see and we'll probably be back for more.

Neuschwanstein- Land of Dreams and Fairytales

Last summer, in June, we traveled to Bavaria, the southern region of Germany. After having been to Hamburg, Berlin and Munich, we were very excited to finally see what my kids call "Cinderella's Castle" and drive some of the famous Romantic Road that runs from Wurzburg to Fussen. Although Walt Disney's animators did use Neuschwanstein Castle as the pattern for the castle located in the center of Disney's theme parks, it doesn't resemble Neuschwanstein very closely. While Disney's Cinderella is magical, it can't touch the magic of the real thing.

The village of Schwangau (Swan Land) is actually home to not one, but two beautiful castles almost directly across from each other. Schloss Newschwanstein (meaning the New Swan Stone Castle, named after a Wagner opera) is the more elaborately built and famous castle. It is the creation of bachelor King Ludwig II, and is only one of several (see the Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee Castles as well). Hohenschwangau (High Swan Land or Country) is the yellow-colored castle that was Ludwig's childhood home.

Although we went in June, we ended up freezing cold and soaking wet. This area borders on the Alps, so it tends to be wetter and cooler than the other parts of Germany. As a result, it is also very lush, green and beautiful.

You must book your tickets to see one or both castles in advance, and arrive early in order to make your scheduled tour time. If you drive, park in one of the pay lots and follow the signs to find the main Ticket Center (you can also just head towards the yellow castle, as the ticket center lies near its feet). It's less than a ten minute walk with kids to the ticket office and then less than ten minutes up the hill to Hohenschwangau where our tour started. Tours can start at either castle however. All the walkways are paved, but it is very hilly and can be steep and inside the castles there are a lot of stairs up and down. I would not recommend strollers inside either of these castles.

You will wait outside the castle doors for your tour (luckily for us an awning provided some cover from the steady drizzle while we waited) until the electronic board shows your tour number. Everyone in that group number shows tickets to the agent, pass through a turnstile and go up some stairs to begin your tour in a display room. The tours can be arranged for different languages, and tour guides seem very knowledgeable and able to answer questions. There is NO picture-taking allowed inside either of the castles. Very unfortunate. I would have loved some pictures. . .

Hohenschwangau was just the right size for our enjoyment, but we had no time to eat lunch before having to hurry to make our next tour at Neuschwanstein. If I had this to do over again with kids (ages 3-6) I would have done separate tickets so we could have later tour times, or done them on different days. Neuschwanstein is one mile up a very steep paved road from Hohenschwangau. It was not to be attempted with three small kids in the pouring rain. We paid our money for a round trip ride and waited for the bus. There are also horse-drawn carriage rides available for an extra fee, but on a day with rain like that, even I considered PETA might actually have a point on that topic.

The bus drops passengers off near a small wooden shelter with several paths leading in different directions. It is still a bit of a walk to get to the castle, but it is level or slightly downhill while going this direction, and wide enough for strollers. When you reach the castle, you queue up and wait for your number to appear on the board. You can get some interesting pictures of the outside of the castle from under this archway.

Neuschwanstein is bigger and more "modern" than Hohenschwangau, which was Ludwig's childhood home. I was impressed by the ingenuity he (or his engineers) used to solve such everyday problems as heating and water. Many romantically-styled murals cover the walls, depicting either historical events or ancient tales of ladies in distress, rescuing knights and battles of great heroics. The luxurious rooms at Versailles in France were impressive, but these rooms were even more extraordinary.

The vast and gorgeous views from the windows of peaceful mountains, green meadows and clear lakes just reinforced its magic. The other tour members and the guides were all cheerful and kind to the kids, who had been warned by us beforehand not to go jumping on the beds or climbing on the chairs. We had learned this from our experience at Jane Austen's house, which is a tale about a child, a pen and a chair . . . but we'll save that for another day.

Even the kids were impressed with some of the stunning objects Ludwig had received for his birthdays growing up. I'm sure they were mainly trying to figure out ways to make their birthdays resemble something more like his. They loved the floors, wall pictures and amazing luxury of these rooms, paired with the very tragic story of Ludwig himself. Even the tour guides couldn't quite agree on how to understand this complicated and quirky man, but the architectural magnificence of this legacy guarantees his place in history.

Well, we loved it! It was everything I'd hoped, but we were sore-footed and exhausted by the end of this tour. The tour itself ends at a well-stocked tourist shop, and there is a small cafe across from it where you can grab a small bite to eat. After a food, potty, trinket break, we posed for a picture by the glass wall with the beautiful pillars and arches trellises and lush landscape behind us. I just wished they would let us out on the balconies, but no. We tried to finish off with a movie about Ludwig's life, but after five minutes we left. I wouldn't bother with it as it was very strange and failed to capture anyone's interest.

So we headed off. This time we had to choose whether to just walk down the hill all the way back to our car (STILL pouring rain) or walk up the hill back to the bus stop. As tired as we were, we opted for the closer bus stop. BIG MISTAKE. There is no ticket taker up here; the bus driver is supposed to ensure you have a ticket, but doesn't enforce a line of any kind. This created the perfect storm of human nature, cultural differences and terrible weather.

When we arrived at the bus stop, we got behind the group that had arrived just before us and waited under the slight protection of the wooden shelter. When the bus came, it quickly became apparent that not everyone felt it necessary to wait their turn. We missed the bus. Deciding that if we were ever going to make it on, than we'd have to stand right out front in the rain. This time, we realized that only one bus was running. It took about 10 or 15 minutes for the bus to go one direction. After almost 30 minutes of standing with three very muddy children in the pouring rain, we were very glad to see the bus again. But we were not the only ones. No one wanted to stand in the rain, and there were many vacationing adults who didn't hesitate to throw elbows and trample small children to make sure they got on. Our general misery was acute: wet, freezing and with feet so sore it has reached levels of agony we hadn't felt since we'd hiked London on foot. I don't know if you've ever tried to maneuver three small and sometimes timid kids through a pressing crowd. For us, this meant moving at a literal snail's pace as the scared kids latched onto our legs and doing a hurried minced-step while still trying to aim for the open bus door. The surging crowd pressed forward, nearly pushing us under the bus. Luckily for us, several men joined my husband in leveraging an umbrella in the door's hinge to keep me and the three kids from getting trampled right at the steps of the bus.

I certainly don't give you that account to discourage you from visiting, but I do hope to prevent anyone from getting hurt. So, if you happen to find yourself in a similarly rainy and crowded situation, just know to AVOID THE BUS! It would have saved us a lot of time and misery to have just sucked it up and walked down.

Driving out of town, I was once again struck by the beauty of it all. The bright green fields spotted with blue lakes and dark green forests, set next to majestic mountains rising up out of floating mists - and a beautiful castle, perched, overseeing it all. I had high hopes for this place, and usually that means I'll be disappointed. I wasn't. The landscape and castles really are magical in their beauty and magnificence. Even in the pouring, freezing rain this place is totally worth it.

TIPS: for vacation rentals in Germany, try: http://www.live-like-a-german.com/ ,

for info on the Romantic Road, go to: http://gogermany.about.com/od/sightsandattractions/a/romanticroad.htm ,

and information on hotels, castle tour tickets, the history of Ludwig and other helpful bits can be found at: http://www.hohenschwangau.de .

On My Knees Cleaning Sick Off the Floor

There's nothing like having sick kids to really make a mom tired. I consciously remind myself that I did indeed sign up for this. But as I'm kneeling on the floor, scrubbing the carpet for the umpteenth time, while making yet another dirty laundry pile and trying to sooth the poor, suffering child I remember back in the day (BK) . . . and I remember someone telling me being a mom could be really hard. Insightful.

But that just shows the limitation of the English language. The word "hard" doesn't really accurately describe the consistent sleepless nights of being a new mom or the accompanying depth of exhaustion, the wearying work of potty training and never ending laundry duty, that stressful start of school and the worry about your child making friends and learning good things. Or even just that constant nagging thought of what are we going to eat tonight? And that's if everyone is healthy and happy.

Really, my understanding of "hard" has grown as I've faced serious challenges. Being a mom is one challenge I got to choose, although I certainly didn't have vomiting in mind when I did, but it's all part of the package and I have to say there is nothing better than making my baby (no matter how old) feel better just by giving them love and comfort.

Now . . . back to the floor.

Traveling with Kids

I don't consider myself a blogger. It feels a bit like leaving a voicemail on a wrong number, but here I go. Out of my comfort zone . . . again.

I've been out of my comfort zone a lot in the past year. When my husband first suggested moving to Europe for six months, I thought it was a crazy and funny idea, but especially crazy. In usual life we live in Southern California. My oldest goes to school, we attend church and playgroups and sports events. We go to the fair and the beach in the summer, see family at holidays and visit the local attractions during the school year. But what if we did leave it all behind to try something extraordinary? The thought took hold. We'd traveled extensively in North America and Australia B.K. (before kids), and I love travel. But to travel Europe with three kids, ages five (almost six) and under? Could I keep it together? Would I lose my temper and my mind? I've never been one to allow fear to make my decisions, so setting all self-doubts aside, I set to researching.

I already knew that a vacation with kids is not a vacation in the adult sense of the word. Someone says 'vacation' and I conjure up the vision of lying in the shade on the beach, reading the latest Sophie Kinsella or Shannon Hale from start to finish, and only moving to take a cooling dip and grab some melon. To date this has only happened once since I entered the foray of motherhood six years ago. This would not be a 'vacation'. It would be better described as an adventure.

As long as I remembered to look at it like that, I was never disapointed.

So, in the end, although I didn't find nearly enough information to adequately plan our trip, I did find enough to know it could be done. So we did it.

To give a sense of the breadth and scope of the thing we did, below is a list of the cities where we stayed or did noteworthy things:

Dublin Ireland
London England
Dover England
Calais France
Paris France (and Versailles )
Brussels Belgium
Amsterdam The Netherlands
Hamburg Germany
Copenhagen Denmark
Stockholm Sweden
Tallinn Estonia
Tartu Estonia
Parnu Estonia
Helsinki Finland
Rostock Germany
Berlin Germany
Prague Czech Republic
Munich Germany (and Bavaria Neuschwanstein )
Bled Slovenia
Ljubljana Slovenia
Plitvice Lakes Croatia (a national park)
Mjlet Island Croatia (a national park)
Dubrovnik Croatia
Split Croatia
Rome Italy
Madrid Spain
Lisbon Portugal
Albufeira Portugal

This trip took us nearly a year, and it wasn't all free time as my husband did actually have to work and I was homeschooling. But to live in a place with children, and yet to live as a tourist is a very special and unique opportunity to really see a place and get to know something about the people who live there.

My goal in sharing these stories and insights is to help others who are ready to venture into the brave new world of traveling with kids, to be able to do it with accurate information and a support system.

That said, I won't be able to help anyone find the best wine in town, the best babysitting services or nightlife of any kind. This wasn't that kind of trip. What I can tell you about are some of the best kid-friendly activities, cities and highlights of our trip. I can give tips, advice and insights into traveling Europe with kids.

Reunions

Summer is that time of year to get outdoors, take vacations and see extended family and friends we haven't gotten to visit in all the school year chaos. Now that summer is at an end, we're shoring up our energy for the school year ahead, and spending time calling or visiting those we love.

As a kid, I have really great memories of giant family reunions at my great-uncle's Idaho farm where there was endless food, games, and latenight campfire singing. The adults gave us kids a free pass to run wild till long after dark.

Unfortunately, with shrinking family-sizes and no family farms, reunions of that magnitude are a thing of the past for most of us. My kids may never know the all out abandon of playing hide-and-seek in acres of crops and only coming to the house to get plates piled with food.